Car batteries suffer if heavily discharged, damaging the cells as well as failing to start the car. So, if the charge warning light comes on, or if the battery seems very sluggish on starting, get the system checked as soon as possible.
If the battery has removable vents (maintenance-free batteries may be sealed, and low-maintenance batteries may not be easy to open) check the electrolyte level. Top up to cover the plates with distilled or deionised water – de-frost water from the ’fridge is ok provided it’s absolutely clean. With maintenance free or low-maintenance batteries, topping up should only be necessary every year or so: have the charging rate checked if much water is being lost.
Corrosion of the battery terminals can cause starting problems. Before removing either battery lead make sure any radio and security codes are noted as given in the handbook, and the engine must be stopped. Remove the negative lead (Black – ) first, then the positive (Red + ), and just lightly scrape the battery posts and the inside of the terminals. Coat the faces with petroleum jelly and re-attach, tightening firmly but not over-straining the fixings.
A battery has a bunch of lead walls in it and they produce chemical electricity by mixing and moving acid around inside. But when your car bounces around a lot these lead walls loosen up, brake off, and can cause your battery to die quickly, or not operate and leave you stranded. To reduce vibration of your battery make sure that your battery is secury 
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